TN Redback Rabbits: Developing a Rabbit Habitat

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	Developing a Rabbit Habitat by Pete Proctor In the sport of brace beagling, it is imperative to have a habitat containing lots of rabbits. This makes it easier both to train dogs and to use for field trials. In this sport, Beagles are judged on how accurately they trail the rabbit's track. Beagles never actually chase the rabbit; rather, they follow the rabbit's trail based on scent. There are several important steps in creating and maintaining a rabbit habitat. First, you must choose a suitable location and test the soil to determine pH balance. Next, you're ready to design, build and develop the grounds. Stocking rabbits comes last. A lot of hard work goes into developing and maintaining the habitat, but if you proceed thoughtfully, the rewards will come later.
	Choosing a Site In preparing to build a rabbit habitat, you should determine your need. If you are building an area for personal training purposes, you may only need a few acres, but if you are planning an area for a beagle club, you should allow 25 to 40 acres. In choosing a site, you should look for a level field with minimal ditches and streams. It is nearly impossible to raise rabbits in woods due to the abundance of predators and lack of undergrowth and food sources. Rabbits prefer fields with plenty of cover and grass strips for raising their young. Once you have selected the site, you will usually need to build a fence, or enclosure, to protect the rabbits from ground predators. You should allow at least a 25 foot right of way for the fence. About 20 feet should be cleared outside the fence, and a 5 to 6 foot path should be cleared inside the fence. It is important to keep both sides of the fence line clear of tree seedlings; otherwise, predators may one day gain access to the enclosure. Soil testing is almost as fundamental as feeding rabbits. If the soil cannot support the grass strips or cover blocks that make a healthy rabbit habitat, then you may need to use fertilizer and/or lime to counter the imbalance. You want to test the soil at various locations because soil pH could vary in a 25 to 40 acre area. Work with your local agricultural extension agent. He or she will not only test the soil but also make fertilizer and lime recommendations. Soil should be tested about every two years. Next comes designing the habitat. If you were to fly in an airplane over a finished habitat, you would want to see a checkerboard design with 50 by 50 foot squares. The squares are actually cover blocks. The grass strips that run between the cover blocks should be 5 to 6 feet wide. If you start with high weeds or briars, you may need to use survey ribbons to mark off the squares before you mow to create the strips. The grass strips provide foliage for adult and baby rabbits. Keeping in mind that rabbits like to gnaw their food, good grasses to sow in the strips include fungus-free fescue, oats, alfalfa, bluegrass, rye grass, and even clover. The best grasses for your enclosure will depend on the climate at that location. In North Carolina, one of the best grasses is a fungus-free fescue called MaxQ. It seems to be more tolerant to drought and is more nourishing than other fescues. Depending on what is already growing in the field, you may need to sow a suitable cover. Briars, honeysuckle, sericea lespedeza and many types of natural-growing weeds make good cover blocks that provide shade and nesting areas for raising young rabbits. In hot weather cover blocks should be at least 2 feet high to provide adequate shade. However, trees or plants such as elderberry are not recommended. To maintain an abundant rabbit supply, you may also need to supplement with commercial rabbit food. Feeding stations should be accessible throughout the habitat, and water should be available at each feeder. Be sure to cover the water so evaporation doesn't occur rapidly and so the water stays clean. Keeping Predators Out Designing and building a fence that will keep predators out of the enclosure comes next. You need to determine the fence height and type of wire. Fourteen-gauge plastic-coated wire with 1 by 2 inch webbing is ideal for the lower portion, and 17-gauge plastic-coated wire is fine for the top part. I recommend building a 8 foot fence using 8 foot metal fence posts buried 15 to 18 inches in the ground and set about 15 feet apart. You will still need some wooden posts on the corners and on long spans to provide adequate strength. The tops and bottoms of the fence are target areas for animals trying to get inside. At Indian Beagle Club, we use 17-gauge wire netting for the top 6 feet. The last 14 to 18 inches extend outward at a 45-degree angle to keep animals from climbing or jumping in. Angled PVC pipe is connected to the fence posts, and tension wire a the top of the posts helps to hold the wire netting in place. To provide security along the bottom, you may want to create an apron in which the fencing wire is folded 15 to 15 inches. A better alternate is to bury the fence 6 to 12 inches in the ground. Finally, once the grass strips and cover blocks have been planted and the fencing is installed, you are ready to stock the area with rabbits. One reason to wait until the grounds are finished is because natural food must be available when you bring in new rabbits. Rabbits will not eat from commercial feeders for the first couple of weeks until they get used to them. In choosing rabbits, it's a good idea to buy them from different locations. This helps to promote genetic diversity and a healthy stock. It's also all right to mix types of rabbits, such as cottontails and marsh rabbits. Initially start with around 90 rabbits for a 25 to 40 acre habitat. Maintenance is an ongoing effort with any rabbit habitat. Mow the grass strips regularly from late spring through fall to provide tender grass for the rabbits. Special care must be taken when mowing during nesting season. Frequency depends on the amount of rainfall. If the cover blocks begin to die out, you may have to figure out some other foliage options or increase fertilizer or lime. At Indian Beagle club, we plow and re-sow four to five cover blocks every year, and we spray once a year with formula that helps to prevent ticks. We feed and provide fresh water every five to seven days. Commercial food and water are especially important in the winter. In the summer, rabbits will also eat natural grasses and get water from green grass and early morning dew. The investment in both money and time that you spend planning your rabbit habitat and the dedication to ongoing maintenance will pay off. With a healthy rabbit habitat, your field trail brace beagles will run better and you will have more time to enjoy watching them trail rabbits. Used with permission from Today's Breeder, Nestle Purina PetCare Company
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